Highland Park 25 Year Old 1970 Gordon & Macphail Centenary

For the 100th anniversary of Gordon & Macphail, they bottled a couple of special whiskies in the Centenary Reserve series. I tried the Balblair 1973, Caol Ila 1966, Mortlach 1984 and Saint Magdalene 1980 before. The first two were great. So I am a bit curious to this dark HP.

The nose is very aromatic and red, if you know what I mean. Think strawberry, honey, nectar and dark fruit, both juicy and dry. Plums, raisins. Chocolate cake and maraschino cherries with a puff of whipped cream on top. Delicious.

The attack, however, is rather weak. Not a lot of body and too many tannins, turning it bitter immediately. Thankfully there are enough sweet fruits to keep it afloat, but only just. By the second sip, it goes south. The wood takes control. The smokiness from the peat makes it shudder a final time, but to no avail. This one is lost. Pity.

During the finish, it gets worse, from sweet to bittersweet to bitter, while the smokiness gently fades.

I had expected a lot more after the grand nose, which was worth at least 84. But it falls apart like a house of cards.

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