Nikka Miyagikyo 12 Year Old

There is something oddly comforting about opening a Japanese single malt, especially from the power house Nikka, because you know you're always in for a treat. And this entry level 12 is a must have on any shelf.

The warm chocolate Christmas cake sets the tone for a complex nosing experience. First come the dried figs and raisins with a healthy drop of vanilla. Juicy fruits are next in the shape of pears. Let it catch it's breath and in come salty wild red berries and a handful of almonds. A very complex nose on a relatively young malt.

The full-bodied spirit cascades in with luscious chocolate, black peppercorns and candied orange. Chew it for a while (you will want to, believe me!) to welcome red grapes and hazelnuts in a swirl of sticky toffee.

The distinct aftertaste has a curious 'twang' to it. Not too oily, not too dry, it ends with lovely citrus and mint.

Just another malt that re-affirms my faith in the Land of the Rising Sun.

I have yet to come across a Japanese whisky that I didn't like. Sure, some are better than others but generally any expression with Kanji symbols on the label is going to be good. And so is the case with this Miyagikyou 12.

A nice nutty nose brimming with honey coated almonds sprinkled over a bowl of treacle with a burnt caramel topping. Finally a drizzle of brandy and coconut shavings give way to something a touch floral.

Here's where I'm a little stumped. The palate screams unmistakeable sherry but my research shows none of that. Nevertheless there are typical sherry notes in this expression. Honey and clove mixed with big fat red grapes followed by a pleasant cinnamon spiciness and ending with burnt citrus, aniseed and a pod of cardamom.

The dry finish is quite long and has a playful licorice twang to it.

But I keep going back to the palate - I'm sure there is a sherry cask in there. Somewhere!

Well, it's been a couple of weeks since I posted the other Nikka whiskies I've been tasting (was away on vacation for a week, and life and work have been busy) - but we are back with the first of two single malts.

One of Nikka's two distilleries, Miyagikyo produces the more lightly fragrant and fruity malt (the distillery also makes Nikka Coffey Grain Whisky). They are available in 10yo, 12yo, 15yo and NAS (made to be drunk mizuwari-style, in a highball).

The nose is quite malty, with vanilla pods, light honeys and caramels, and tropical fruits like mango and papaya. Floral and perfumy. More oakiness than you would expect from a 12 year old. Very nice. Water brings out that fruitiness, and also some peat.

The palate has many of the same characteristics as the nose, but features a little more oak, honey and vanilla. With water, it gets more bitter and herbal.

There is a wisp of smoke on the oaky finish, which is quite long and deep. This is a lovely single malt, and not without some bite; but there is something about it that leaves me wanting a little more. I remember tasting the 15 year old at WhiskyLive Toronto last year, and think I like it a little more - but this 12 year old is well worth investing in.

Nose, Taste, Finish and Balance are graded out of 2.5 each:

Nose: Immediately a huge serving of malt and cereal, mixed in with honey and rhubarb. A second approach reveals a fair amount of accompanying smoke, as well the woody aroma of an over-heated antique shop, all working to give this malt a wonderfully complex nose. 2.0

Taste: A medium bodied coating of gentle oak-laden spice envelopes the palate, offering a platform for the rhubarb and vanillas to work their magic. The honey and malt-coated cereal is ever-present yet not as abundant as on the nose. 2.5

Finish: A fluffy burnt marshmallow finish, with the marshmellow having been held in the fire for too long, and thus picking up the smoke and wood flavours from the fire, as well as a slightly bitter kick from the burnt edges. 2.0

Balance: Miyagikyo and Yoichi are deservedly the two single malt jewels in the Nikka crown, and I've now had the pleasure of sampling both. Unfortunately the Yoichi that I reviewed was only a 10 year old, and thus it may not be fair to compare it with this 12 year old Miyagikyo. Nonetheless I do feel that there is a greater depth of character to be found in this whisky. The Miyagikyo possesses a more pronounced and complex sweetness, as well as a more refined edge of smoke and spice, thus making it a luxuriously complex malt and ideal for after dinner. I speculate that the Yoichi 12 year old may be of an equal standing, however its vibrancy will most likely be better suited to an early evening starter. What it does show however is that Nikka do have two very fine single malts up their sleeve, more than capable of rivalling Suntory's Hahushu and Yamazaki malts. And when it comes to the sweet-malt championship belt, any bout between Nikka's Miyagikyo and Suntory's Yamazaki is sure to go the full 12 rounds. 2.0