This 22 years old BenRiach appeared in the so-called Wood Finish Series. It has brothers on PX, Madeira, Claret, Burgundy, Rioja, Moscatel, Gaja Barolo, Sauternes and Tawny Port, but I wish to try the one finished in Dark Rum Casks.
The rum is unmistakable on the nose. Sugar cane, dark berries, vanilla and lots of mokatine. I really like the smell (and taste) of mokatine, mind you. This is good. Arabica coffee, cocoa and a hint of cuberdons. I have to say, I love this nose.
The body is rather light. It is soft upon arrival, but soon the spices kick in. Cinnamon and pepper, liquorice and… ah, yes, there is the rum again. Typical notes of sugar, dark syrup, vanilla and more coffee. A bitterness counters all the sweet notes. This is good, but it can hide is age well (although I do not believe it is supposed to, in this case).
The finish is medium long, bittersweet with a drying effect towards the death.
There is nothing wrong with this BenRiach, but I confess that I expect a bit more depth from a 22 year old malt. More so if I have to pay 175 EUR for a bottle.