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The Christmas release from Malts of Scotland consists of no less than 11 new bottlings, including 5 peaty drams. I was quite looking forward to this new Bowmore, a single bourbon hogshead of a young, restless Bowmore. I salivate while pouring it.
It is surprisingly malty and reminds me mostly of white bread. The peat is pretty discreet, but the citrus, which I expect in (mostly young) Bowmore, is conspicuous in its absence. It takes more than five minutes before a slice of lemon shines through. Touch of salt, too. This is an odd one. I even tends towards new make a bit. Which is not to say that I do not like the nose on this one. Au contraire.
On the palate, I cannot get rid of the association with new make. Very spicy (white pepper, ginger, liquorice). Midpalate, all kinds of citrus struggle through. Lemon, lime. Drop of olive oil, pinch of salt. Becomes wonderfully sweet, though. The white bread does remain in the fore. Breadcrumbs. Peat.
It has a long, warm, sweet finish in which the citrus has the final say.
An honest Bowmore for an honest price (60 EUR).