Port Ellen 1979 Signatory Vintage (22 Year Old)

Port Ellen is one of the most popular labels of the last decennium. It's almost a legend. The distillery, founded in 1825, was closed in 1983 and demolised in the '90s. The expressions are becoming rarer and thus more expensive. Port Ellen is very popular with the so-called Indies - independent bottlers - and enjoys an almost indestructable reputation with connoisseurs.

The version I tasted was a Signatory Vintage of 22 years of age. This Port Ellen 1979 was distilled on 28 August 1979 and bottled on 5th March 2002 at 43% ABV. It was matured on a sherry refill butt, number 5536 (I tasted from bottle 494 of 738).

The lovely tears announce good things to come. The dram is rather oily and very light in color, like white whine.

I was surprised at the peat, for there was a lot less than I anticipated. There was also just a tad of salt, just an echo of the sea. OK, I did not expect this at all, but it certainly was not a dissappointement. I detected fingerpaint intertwined with lavender and a touch of vanilla. I couldn't help but be reminded of new car tyres (I recently bought a new car). Rubber? Unexpected but enjoyable. I want more! Hence it took a while before I actually tasted it (the people at the table actually began joking that they thought I was going to inhale the dram instead of drinking it).

On the palate, this Port Ellen is truly buttery and it warms you up immediately. Now the peat manifests itself in full force, accompanied by sea salt, almonds and pepper. If you keep it in your mouth for a while you'll also get a hint of lemon. But what a sticky dram (in a positive sense!). It is glued to your gums! Irresistible.

The finish is fresh and warm and everlasting. At the death, the dram was rather salty and dry.

This Islay whisky is very elegant and in perfect balance, but above all: very drinkable.

Voor novices - like myself - Port Ellen may seem high aimed, but I thouroughly enjoyed this dram and it makes me long for more. This will be a dram long remembered.

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