anCnoc 22 Year Old

A 20th-anniversary gift from the missus, this one. We cracked open the bottle last night and toasted with a couple of drams, and then decided to put the bottle away for our next anniversary. I confess that I snuck another pour to write this review tonight, and I’m glad I did. I liked it 24 hours ago, but it seems even tastier now. Perhaps because my mind is more on whisky tonight than it was last night. ;-)

An Cnoc 22 yo is aged primarily in American bourbon casks, with some two-year Spanish Oloroso sherry casks used as well. The result is a more rich, round, and complex dram than its younger Knockdhu kin, although it still retains that characteristic easy-sipping An Cnoc lightness. No caramel coloring, non-chill-filtered, and bottled at 46% ABV.

Nose: A fruit market where everything’s been picked just this morning. So many fruits, it’s hard to distinguish amongst them, although apples dominate and lemons lurk in the background. There are plenty of other nice and unique things going on as well: creamy cocoa, mead (as opposed to mere honey), caramel, a trace of sherry, and some souvenirs from the bourbon casks: pepper, cinnamon, and corn. I think I get a little tea and leather as well, both of which help balance the sweetness and spice. There’s some oak, to be sure, but less than expected from a 22-year-old whisky. A superb nose.

Palate: I’m not surprised to be let down after that nose, but the disappointment is slight. The flavors are much the same as the aromas, if more polite than I’d like ’em. Maybe a little more oak. Tasty but tame. The long finish is a big rebound, however. Still many of the same flavors as the oak and spices take center stage, well-supported by the fruits and honey. Tea and tannins at the tail end to close things out with a drying effect that’s very fitting.

In all, An Cnoc 22 is one to nose forever, taste briefly, and then allow the finish to work its long-lasting magic. I’d feel more comfortable recommending it if it was at least $50 cheaper, but I’d never accuse my wife of wasting money on this one. If I notice changes over time, I’ll post my thoughts in the comments section—but that’ll have to wait until next October.

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