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Bunnahabhain 14 Year Old Pedro Ximenez Finish

Modern Day Paxarette Part I

7 584

@cricklewoodReview by @cricklewood

21st Mar 2021

1

  • Nose
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  • Taste
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  • Finish
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  • Balance
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  • Overall
    84

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Some writers have made the bold claim that perhaps much of the beloved Sherry influence from pre-90's whisky may very well have come from the use of Paxarette. The now demonized additive was quite common and when you examine what exactly is Paxarette it wouldn't be too much of a stretch to see why the use of PX sherry seasoned casks is now in vogue.

This kind of concentrate use was not unique to whisky, many rum producers would use a kind of concentrate prune "wine" to condition casks, Cognac ages sugar in old casks to use for their dosage along with boiled wood essence.

I'll examine a couple of PX finished whiskys to see if we can find a thread. This Bunnahabhain was distilled in 2003 aged in 2nd fill sherry casks and finished 3 years in first fill PX Butts (which is rare PX hoggies are more common) it was released in 2017 as part of Distell's special rare releases.

Nose: Deep & funky, soy sauce, plum sauce, a kind of meatiness, a slight vegetal side like cooked spinach. With time I get custard (creme caramel), oxidized yeasty wine notes, walnuts and a little putty. With water it brings out more of a nutty side, chestnuts, shoe polish, it becomes more austere also.

Palate: Grapes, apricots, oyster sauce, definitely a bit of sulfur, earthy, salty & sweet. Water smooths it out, makes it creamy, with marzipan but also heightens the saltiness.

Finish: Peppery, more savoury on the tail end, a bit of cooked Brussel sprouts in pork fat. Game meat with juniper and grape reduction. water makes the finish more cardboardy, brings out the tannins in the oak.

Notes: The nose was very reminiscent of the Bunna 12 in my mind the palate is where things take a turn, the PX overtakes everything except the trademark coastal notes, there's nothing subtle about it. I don't know if this is really worth paying a premium over something like the 12 which is well balanced. I guess it's for completists or those who love PX with a touch of funk, not something I would want to own.

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5 comments

@BlueNote
BlueNote commented

@cricklewood Thanks for the heads up on this one. Sounds avoidable.

23 days ago 1Who liked this?

@cricklewood
cricklewood commented

@BlueNote I've had some real lovely Bunna this wasn't my preferred style, I guess for those who love big jammy sherry.

23 days ago 2Who liked this?

Astroke commented

I remember getting this bottle but they were few and far between at the LCBO. Traded it to someone in the states for Rye I think :) The Deanston 10 PX finish was very good and I was happy to get a couple of those.

21 days ago 1Who liked this?

@cricklewood
cricklewood commented

@Astroke yes I think a few cases of it landed and the usual stores and created a fuss as it sold out instantly. Your trade was likely a better outcome. I think Deanston cleaner profile is a better fit for cask experiments and the price on that PX was unbeatable.

21 days ago 1Who liked this?

Astroke commented

@cricklewood Of course the excellent price of the Deanston 10 PX was the result of the LCBO ineptitude as they listed it as the standard 10, 46%. Once word got around they were cleaned off the shelves.

20 days ago 1Who liked this?

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