Glen Grant Collection - The Toshan Man's Take

Gordon & Macphail is one of Scotland's oldest independent bottlers, active since 1895. Their must-see shop can still be found on South Street in Elgin.

On 4th September 2017 they announced the releases of the Glen Grant Collection. In a luxurious oak chest, they offer 6 single malts from this Speyside distillery from consecutive years: 1950, 1951, 1952, 1953, 1954 and 1955. Only 75 boxes will be released, containing these whiskies that matured for between 57 and 61 years. The price reflects the exclusivity: RRP £9.995.

But make no mistake: there are no 'new' releases among them. All 6 vintages appeared before, between 2007 and 2014 (and in larger numbers than just 75). You can still find the individual bottles in stores and online for prices between 1.500 and 4.500 EUR (per bottle that is!), so getting them in this box is actually not a bad idea - if you can afford it.

These are the six vintages that are on offer in the collection:

Glen Grant 1950 - 57 Year Old b2007 – cask 853 & 2734 – 40% - 668 bts Glen Grant 1951 - 61 Year Old b2013 – cask 2760 & 3202 – 40% - 358 bts Glen Grant 1952 - 59 Year Old b2012 – cask 378 & 1133 & 1471 & 3245 – 40% - 665 bts Glen Grant 1953 - 60 Year Old b2013 – cask 598-599 & 1105 – 40% - 517 bts Glen Grant 1954 - 59 Year Old b2014 – cask 1822 – 40% - 610 bts Glen Grant 1955 - 57 Year Old b2012 – cask 833 – 40% - 484 bts

Naysayers might claim it is a ploy by the company to sell unsold stocks. I say, it's a great opportunity to see the collection in a whole new light. These might have been under the radar a bit and become somewhat unaffordable for all of us, but in this collection, one might just be tempted to make the investment. I know I was... until I spoke to my bank manager.

I was given the opportunity to taste all six by Gordon & Macphail, an opportunity that I could not possibly refuse, as you can imagine. And not just because of the value of the bottles, as you are about to find out.

Below you will find my take on these bespoke vintages. So… sit back and relax and take your time. The malts merit it.

Glen Grant 1950 (57 years old, bottled 2007), Gordon & Macphail 'Glen Grant Collection', hogshead #853 & Sherry butt #2734, 668 bts – 40%

Nose: Wonderfully sweet nose on red and yellow fruit, but also baked apples. Reminds me somewhat of Madeira. Very round and rich. Hints of chocolate and a pinch of spices;

Palate: It is oily and mouthcoating and offers some toasted oak alongside the fruit. The apples turned into apple sauce with loads of cinnamon on top. Yellow plums, apricots and warm spices. Delicious trace of woodsmoke, giving him a tremendous old school character. Wait… this is old school, of course!

Finish: It is that woodsmoke that gets all the praise in the medium long finish.

Comments: My God, what a fantastic Glen Grant. 1950… That makes it the oldest whisky – from a vintage point of view – that I have tried. No less than 57 years in oak and already 10 years in the bottle. Liquid history. What a privilege. And it immediately tumbles into my personal top ten! Still available at La Maison du Whiskty, but it will set you back 4.200 EUR. Good beyond reckoning.

93/100

Glen Grant (61 years old, bottled 2013), Gordon & Macphail 'Glen Grant Collection', Refill Sherry butt #2760 & First fill Sherry butt #3202, 358 bts – 40%

Nose: OMG! The nose is sexy, round, succulent and simply out of this world! Beeswax, peach, mango, apple pie, roasted almonds… but all so bright, it’s pretty amazing.

Palate: It is slightly less fruity on the palate, but very old school with loads of spices (pepper and cinnamon) and a wonderful, but quite dominant, trace of woodsmoke. It is as if I am enjoying a fruit cocktail in front of a crackling fire. Walnuts kick in, while some dark chocolate appears in the background. The fruit turns into the candied variety. Hint of Turkish Delight. Delicious with capital D.

Finish: The finish is long on more apple pie and chocolate.

Comments: The nose on this baby is simply superb! This is – from a maturation point of view – the oldest whisky I have ever tried. 61 years! And so good. I am flabbergasted. I am humbled. Last seen for around 2.600 EUR.

91/100

Glen Grant 1952 (59 years old, bottled 2012), Gordon & Macphail 'Glen Grant Collection', First fill Sherry butt #378; First fill Sherry hogshead #1133; First fill American hogshead #1471 & Refill Sherry hogshead #3245, 665 bts – 40%

Nose: It is surprisingly fresh and bright with light sherry notes in the guise of sultanas and Reine Claude plums on the one hand, but also some fresh coconut and white fruit on the other. It has some resin, which works perfectly. Freshly polished hardwood floor, some thyme and freshly cut grass. Add some overripe banana and you have a nose that nears perfection.

Palate: I would not have minded a bit more body. It’s a bit light. But taste wise, this is a solid malt. A handful of nuts, butterscotch and something that reminds me of the better Cognac. Some earthy notes and woodsmoke give it that old school touch that I have learned to appreciate in older Glen Grant.

Finish: The finish is medium long with hints of white fruit, vanilla and allspice.

Comments: The best these two types of casks have to offer, I’d say. Around 2.400 EUR. Several years ago, this was awarded by Jim Murray… one of the few times that Jim and I agree. You would be forgiven for calling this Glen Grant… Glen Grand!

90/100

Glen Grant 1953 (60 year old, bottled 2013), Gordon & Macphail 'Glen Grant Collection', Refill Sherry butt #598-599 & Refill Sherry hogshead #1105, 517 bts – 40%

Nose: Oh, my! Another one of those amazingly fruity noses on juicy, tropical fruit like pineapple and orange marmelade, hints of nuts, beeswax, marzipan, overripe banana, freshly squeezed orange juice, sap of pine trees and apple sauce. Succulent is an understatement. Add some vanilla and a hint of cocoa. Lest we forget: some menthol! This is simply flabbergasting!

Palate: Good body, lovely spiciness, but it is the fruity nature of this malt that makes it absolutely stunning on the palate. All the fruit from the nose and more, upholstered by a feisty touch of ginger and white pepper. Woodsmoke appears, making it very much like the 1950, but just a tad brighter.

Finish: The finish is long and fruity with the emphasis on juicy oranges.

Comments: Oh, boy, oh, boy… I’m at a loss for words. Another one for my top ten. What a feast. Around 2.400 EUR.

93/100

Glen Grant 1954 (59 years old, bottled 2014), Gordon & Macphail 'Glen Grant Collection', First fill Sherry butt #1822, 610 bts – 40%

Nose: This nose is simply not normal. All sorts of fruit with raisins in the lead, followed by strawberry and raspberry, cantaloupe melon, fermented apple juice and chestnut. Jute, camphor, an old leather sofa, cigar box… what a complexity. What a depth!

Palate: Great body. Mouth coating. And then it happens… an explosion of dark fruit with both dried dades and fresh figs, black tea, but also Columbian coffee, origin chocolate with a cocoa level of 90% or more that has nothing sweet left to offer, some menthol and chewing tobacco… Sugared peel of oranges, stewed strawberries… and some oak. Yes, a touch of tannins, but it is an enrichment. This is… beyond belief!

Finish: The finish is medium long with some earthy notes and some more black chocolate.

Comments: Outrageously good! This is a trophy malt that won a silver medal from the Malt Maniacs, gold at the International Spirits Challenge in 2017 and double gold at the San Francisco World Spirits Competition in 2017. No surprise there, if you’ve tasted this. Still around for 2.300 EUR. And it has to stop now… or my personal top 10 will soon be dominated by old Glen Grant.

93/100

Glen Grant 1955 (57 years old, bottled 2012), Gordon & Macphail 'Glen Grant Collection', First fill Sherry butt #833, 484 bts

Nose: Is it Christmas yet? For that is what this nose reminds me of. Punch, Christmas cake, a warm dessert with plums, apples and oranges, raisins and a bit of mint. But I mean big time! Such a wonderful fruitiness. And with a good espresso on the side. A touch waxy. And the woodsmoke again. This is festively good.

Palate: Great body and good spiciness. Pepper, cloves, cinnamon – Christmas all over again. Some barley sugars precede the fruit. This is all about sherry notes: rum raisins, plums, figs, dades, you name it! Quite a bit of orange zest and a handful of nuts.

Finish: The finish is very long, very spicy and very dark and sweet. And very good.

Comments: Santa, please be so kind as to put this under my tree. What a whisky. Between 1.500 and 2.200 EUR. I guess that makes us even, Santa, for the next ten Christmases…

92/100

Well... 4th September 2017 will be a day long remembered. I have tried 6 outstanding Glen Grant whiskies, that all score 90+ in my book. It will be hard - maybe impossible - to repeat such a feast.

A big thank you again to Gordon & Macphail for the opportunity to taste these bespoke vintages of liquid history.