Johnnie Walker Blue Label

Last fall, while perusing the contents of the locked glass cases at Binny’s, I casually remarked to my wife, “Maybe someday,” in reference to Johnnie Walker Blue Label. In my mind, my comment meant, “Maybe someday, after I have every other whisky I could possibly want in my cabinet.” To my wife, I was expressing a great longing.

So imagine my surprise when I got an early Christmas gift of Johnnie Blue a few weeks ago. I almost wanted to say, “Aw, honey, that’s great…now let’s take it back to the store and exchange it for a couple of good single malts!” But of course I didn’t. It was a helluva thoughtful gift, even if my thoughts were an equal mix of “Wow, I’ve got a bottle of Blue!” and “This stuff isn’t really supposed to be that great.”

Has there ever been a more controversial whisky than JW Blue? Reviews of Blue tend to be more reactionary than analytical. Those who regard it as a so-so blend make disparaging comments about the price tag, whereas those who enjoy it make disparaging comments about those who place too much emphasis on the price tag. Some will say it’s a mere status purchase for well-to-do casual drinkers; others rave about its smoothness and subtle complexity.

I had no idea what to anticipate from such mixed messages, which was fine with me. I could approach JW Blue bias-free and decide for myself in which camp I belonged. What I didn’t anticipate was a chameleon whisky that exhibited such radical changes in a rather short amount of time.

This review is based on my third dram from a bottle opened slightly less than a month ago. (After this, it will be semi-retired to my “For Special Occasions” shelf.) Such a dramatic change from my first dram! I recall that my first nose-and-taste reminded me of my grandmother’s house, full of floral sachets and old furniture. The finish was like nothing I’d experienced: like a mouthful of flowers (or what I imagine a mouthful of flowers would taste like), with few traces of malt or peat or the sorts of flavors one expects from Scotch. Elegant and complex, to be sure – but I wasn’t certain that I’d ever warm to it. It was just too weirdly different for me to consider how over- or under-rated it may be.

I’ve learned from my third taste, however, that JW Blue really needs time to open up and reveal its true character. This is definitely not the whisky I tasted a month ago. On the upside, it’s every bit as smooth and smooth and silky as its champions would suggest. On the downside, it’s as quiet and underwhelming as its detractors would portend.

Getting down to specifics…

Nose: The floral notes are still present, but they’re now supporting players to a light, fluffy caramel and malt. Some very faint traces of peat and almonds. A decent and pleasant nose, but there’s nothing here that makes me want to stick the schnozz in my Glencairn for a very long time.

Palate: A great arrival of malty sweetness and peppery spice that soon develops into…well, not much. The longer it sits in my mouth, the blander it becomes. The finish is short but interesting, in that the sweet maltiness re-appears, followed by a bit of citrus and a touch of smoke and wood. It may be the most complex component of the entire experience, but it’s a pity that it’s over so soon.

Despite the disappointments, it’s hard not to like a whisky that’s so smooth and drinkable. My score ignores the price tag, in that I’d rate it the same if it were a $50 bottle. But my pragmatic nature desires more than an 88 from an expensive whisky. (The bottle sure is heavy, so maybe the extra-thick glass accounts for some of the cost. ;) )For about the same money, I’d suggest Black Bull 30 yo if you’re looking for a great blend (and I’m one who rarely uses “great” and “blend” in the same sentence).

I don’t yet know if Johnnie Blue will have more changes in store as it continues to open up. I’ll know better when I have my next dram – probably about the time of my birthday in June.

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