Mortlach 21 Year Old
Older but not wiser
0 1291
Review by @WhiskyBee
- Nose~
- Taste~
- Finish~
- Balance~
- Overall91
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This was close to a blind purchase for me. Perhaps a one-eye-shut purchase would be more accurate. I had a wee sample of Mortlach 21 last winter and was suitably impressed. This, plus my fondness for the 15 yo (another Gordon & McPhail bottling), convinced me that this rather pricey IB would be a well-calculated risk. I can’t complain about any whisky to which I’d award a 91—but frankly, I prefer the 15 yo for its better balance and more articulate array of flavors.
The 15 yo, while soft and refined, is amazingly flavorful and layered for a 40% ABV whisky (and I didn’t notice until after purchasing that it wasn’t at 43% like most bottlings). The 21 yo, at 43%, is tamer, woodier, and packs less of the meaty oomph characteristic of Mortlach. I’ve also knocked a few points off its score as the bottle has settled and certain flavors that should have stayed in the background have become more dominant. But despite misgivings and shortcomings, it’s still a top-notch dram.
There are no dates or cask numbers to be found on the label, but my best guess is that this went into the barrel in 1990 and into the bottle in 2011. Bottle level is slightly above the halfway mark as of this neat tasting.
Nose: Sherry casks at work here. Sticky dried fruit that reminds me of the last time I bought a box of prunes (and please don’t ask why I needed the prunes). Apples and vanilla, certainly. The malt, so dominant in the 15 yo, is there, but now a supporting player. The nose also reminds me of the wonderful mishmash of aromas at the Albanese Candy Factory here in Indiana, where they make everything from chocolate delights to gooey gummies on-site.
It’s certainly a gutsier nose than the 15 yo, and nearly as pleasant in its own way, but the 21 screams, whereas the 15 seduces. I like it very much, but I miss the overriding layer of malt that helped maintain better balance in the 15.
Palate: Rich, oily, and very satisfying. More sherry and prunes, their sticky sweetness now balanced by the appearance of oak and fresh-cut grass. The finish is reasonably long and complex, with some newfound floral notes added to all of the aforementioned sweet elements. It’s a wee bit clipped and drying at the very end, but not enough to gripe and grumble about.
Any minor quibbles I have with the 21 yo are mainly the result of comparing it to the wow-inducing 15 yo. It’s an excellent dram, and I regard it as money well-spent. But if you’ve never sampled a Mortlach, I’d suggest saving about 40 bucks and opting for its younger sibling.
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Nice review. I'm yet to try a Mortlach. The 21yo is currently "on special" at a whisky retailer here in Australia so this is quite timely information!
RE: bottling date - did you look near the base of the bottle for a bottling code (hold it up to some light and turn the bottle slowly all the way around while examing the bottom 2cm or so of the bottle). Failing that, shine a torch into the bottle to examine the inside of the label. Let me know if you see anything there..