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I opened this in Spring and, will have to admit, fell in love straight away. Only my second ever Mortlach (after my darling F&F 16) but I'm a sucker for big, bold, old-skool and, yes, somewhat meaty profiles, and this ticks all the right boxes.
Review is neat with just under half a bottle left.
Nose - a very appealing initial hit of savoury (Bovril and mushrooms), sweet (barley sugar sweets and vanilla) and spice - baker's ginger and clove. A very pleasant and inviting first whiff indeed! Then its complexity starts to reveal itself - a touch of rock salt (not sea - just to be clear ha!), apricot, grilled pineapple, yellow plum, cardamom, raisins, hint of dry fig and charred oak ... Phew! A wonderful nose that leans slightly to the dry side.
Taste - Again, more of the sweet, savoury and spice but with the sweet taking the lead as it arrives. Sweet and sour fruit - pineapple and apricot, more sweet spices, charcoal, rose water and more salty mushroom notes. Good mouthfeel.
Finish - med. Drying with Earl Grey tea, touch of dry sherry and ginger.
Clearly this is a style of whisky that I like very much and, as such, my score will undoubtedly reflect that. This is the kind of malt one can casually sip away at and be very pleased with or delve in and spend a while getting more intimate. I'll resist the urge to blab on too much but will highlight the balance and bold savoury notes - they whisper to a bygone era. The finish, arguably, is its weakest point but it's certainly satisfactory; but the nose! Man, I could nose it all night - it just damn well smells like ... good Scotch!