The new 20 Year Old is dubbed Cowie’s Blue Seal, which is a reference to one of the former owners, who later became mayor of Dufftown and left the distillery to his son.
Wonderfully aromatic nose on old, dusty books, a drop of blood, orange peel and a very delicate not of wild flowers, even some potpourri. Cocoa and dark caramel. On overripe fig. But creamy and delicate at the same time – if that makes sense.
Creamy on the palate, with a soft spiciness (nutmeg and pepper) and dark fruit in the guise of figs, raisins and dried apricots. Some pine sap and menthol. A mild drying effect from the oak.
In the medium long finish it’s again the oranges that have the final say.
Lovely Mortlach, but not exactly the Beast of Dufftown. This one is very civilized. I did notice that the new range is a lot less ‘meaty’ than some independent bottlings of Mortlach. Seems to me this is a conscious choice, as the 12 and 16 years old (my fav) lack that umami side as well.