1806 Hillrock Estate Solera Bourbon

"...don't lead me half-way to Paradise...so near, yet so far away." I write critic's reviews, which means I grade on criteria not precisely the same as my personal taste

Hillrock Estate Distillery is located in Ancram, New York State. It uses local estate grown grain and does its own malting. The master distiller is Dave Pickerell, who worked 14 years at Maker's Mark. 1806 Hillrock Estate presents itself as the first solera-aged bourbon, with whiskey with an average age of more than 6 years and finishing with the use of 20 year old oloroso sherry casks. Hillrock reports that the bourbon uses approximately 37% rye content in its bourbon, which is extremely high within the industry

The reviewed bottle if from barrel # 35, and has been open for 5 months

Nose: strong intensity, tons of spice from that 37% rye content. Pleasantly floral. Dark fruity, but more from the oloroso sherry than from rye grain. I am always skeptical of rye plus wine, but this nose works, in spades. Beautiful, and exquisitely balanced. Water raises the pitch, merges the flavours, and emphasises crystalline sugar. Score: 24/25

Taste: tart, a bit astringent, and slightly thin in the mouth. This is still very good, but not equal to the fabulous nose. Water added merges the flavours and brings out winey fruit flavours. Score: 22/25

Finish: goes a little sour with a lot of fruit tannins. Tolerable, but the quality of the experience is much less than what precedes it. This is where wine-finishing lessens the whiskey. Water added emphasises wine fruitiness and wine tannins. Score: 18/25

Balance: outstanding in the nose, very good on delivery, only fair on the finish. Score: 21/25

Total Sequential Score: 85 points

Strength: strong flavours throughout. Score: 23/25

Quality: the individual component flavours are all very good. Score: 23/25

Variety: very good variety. Score: 22/25

Harmony: excellent in the nose, very good on delivery, fair on the finish. Score: 20.5/25

Total Non-Sequential Score: 88.5 points

Comment: I have very mixed feelings about 1806 Hillrock Estate Solera Bourbon whiskey. The nose is exquisite. The delivery is very enjoyable. I could stop there and enjoy it mightily. In the end, and here I mean the finish, I find that the sherry doesn't integrate well with this very high-rye- percentage bourbon. It is the typical clash of rye grain with wine flavours. I can't imagine Jim Murray liking this sherry finish, and I have to agree with him in this case. Many will like this one, and I can't really blame them...part of the experience is great. Halfway to Paradise