Hillrock Estates Distillery Hillrock Estate Solera Aged Bourbon
The California Chardonnay of Bourbons
3 286
Review by @cricklewood
- Brand: Hillrock Estates Distillery
- ABV: 46.3%
Hillrock Estates is a small farm distillery, in Hudson Valley NY. Their first products were released back in 2012 which in the current whisky climate seems like an eternity. Initially composed solely of sourced whisky, I believe their plan was to slowly increase the percentage of their production into the whisky until they no longer have to source. They do make a single malt this is made entirely of their estate grown barley. I did not remember their association with the late Dave Pickerell at the time I tasted their whisky but he was central to the set up of their operation.
The whisky is aged in a solera system like what is used for Sherry or some Cognacs, it is then finished in old Oloroso sherry casks. This was sampled blind.
Nose: Definitely feel the malt on here. That wet grain/sprouted grain note. Brown sugar, plums, then there's a pleasant coppery note. Slight yeasty aromas like you'd find in some types of sherry. Slightly starchy plantain and custard.
Palate: Nice smooth entry, creamy. waffles, salted pecans, cedar, older wood, a little agave and ginger.
Finish: Slightly cardboardy, sugar cookies, praline a touch of ginseng. Cold coffee
The Blab: Really surprised. The palate is full of richness and sweet things but not what you'd typically get from Bourbon, there's a bit of a vegetal, root thing going on in back but it adds complexity. That said all that richness adds up and can be a little extreme. The friend who sent the sample is the one who called it the California Chardonnay or bourbons. She said it was like all teased hair and sparkly outfits, read into this what you may.
The bold cask finish is almost a Pickerell trademark, it worked fantastically at Whistlepig, it was central to the Metallica whisky he was working on as well and here again we see his understanding of it. Old Sherry casks, Sauternes, Cognac etc..are made of some of the best oak available, they will not only impart their previous content but some of those old complex barrel aging notes to younger whisky. This Solera bourbon was fun, I am scoring it high because it is well made and was truly enjoyable but it's just way too rich and sweet for my tastes, if you've got a sweet tooth this is for you.
Interesting review.
I thought that bourbon has to be aged in fresh casks? How does the solera system take this into account?