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A treasured position of mine, I was surprised at how much was left in the bottle. I wish I’d bought more before it was discontinued, although I’ve yet to try the 16 year old, put off by the consistently poor reviews (at least compared to this).
The spirit is amber in colour and has a pleasing glass coating viscosity. The aromas are mainly sweet with toffee, molasses, vanilla with a sprinkling of cocoa and orange blossom, quite captivating. The viscosity is present in the syrupy mouth feel and there is a nice alcoholic attack from the idiosyncratic percentage. The flavour profile promised by the aroma is delivered in full with an added backbone of malt. The finish is surprisingly clean given the syrupiness before with development of some new spicy peppery notes, good and long.
I should really open that bottle of the 16 year old on the shelf, it can’t be bad stuff if it's got any of the character of this most luxurious of malts. I try and characterise malts as to when and where they could be most usefully appreciated, but this one defies categorisation, aperitif, after diner, summer, winter or in a hip flask it would do equally good service.