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Mortlach Gordon & MacPhail

The great disappointment

0 779

@PandemoniumReview by @Pandemonium

6th Sep 2014

0

Mortlach Gordon & MacPhail
  • Nose
    21
  • Taste
    18
  • Finish
    19
  • Balance
    21
  • Overall
    79

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Distribution of ratings for this: brand user

Time to try this one: Mortlach 15yo Gordon & MacPhail, a bottle that is hard to find here in Belgium, but it can easily be found in a Tesco somewhere in the Highlands. I really liked its older brother, the famous 16yo Flora & Fauna, so let's wee how this one holds up.

Nose: Malted barley, sherry, notes of milk and biscuits with a touch of spice, oak and faint hints of citrus. All this served on a powerful layer of vanilla cream.

Mouth: creamy and syrupy on the palate: with tones of biscuits and malted barley, white chocolate and raisins, shades of of nutmeg and black pepper, a dash of sherry and of course the elements of toasted oak that brings forth the dominant layers of spicy vanilla
(Luckily a drop of water removes much of the vanilla)

Finish: Medium, but smooth as butter, with notes of oak and ginger.

Conclusion: I'm not going to lie, this is not what I expected and definitely not my style. I expected more fruit and that meaty quality of Mortlach. Yes, I get some sherry notes, but I'm quite amazed that this was matured in a refill sherry cask. It has American oak written all over it. I can perfectly understand that the creamy texture and vanilla tones might appeal to a lot of people, but not me. I was quite disappointed with this whisky, probably due to my high expectations.

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7 comments

@Nozinan
Nozinan commented

I reviewed another G&M Mortlach in the spring and was similarly disappointed. Maybe it is G&M... Maybe they don't get the good casks of the stuff from the distillery.

11 years ago 0

@Pandemonium
Pandemonium commented

not sure about G&M, they made quite the name for themselves back in the day when no body was interested in single malts, but I can imagine that it must get harder and harder for independent bottlers to gain access to premium casks.

11 years ago 0

R
Rigmorole commented

At least it didn't taste of sulfur.

11 years ago 0

@GregLogan
GregLogan commented

Gordon and McPhail is the problem - the simply don't know how to select good material. I recommend ADR Cask Collection - I have had great success.

10 years ago 0

@Pandemonium
Pandemonium commented

I respectfully disaggree with you sir, while G&M's low end Connoisseurs Choice and the distillery label's range have been often less than stellar, they managed to put out some real gems. They've been at this game for a long time and know what they're doing. As for AD.Rattray, they're good, but not yet at Jack Wieber, Cadenhead, BerryBros, Adelphi, Blackadder, Silver Seal or Signatory Vintage levels.

10 years ago 0

@GregLogan
GregLogan commented

Pande

Thanks for the input. My only experience with G&M is with Connoisseurs Choice - and I was quite disappointed. You are indicating that this is their low end. What is their high end??

I have had Blackadder Legendary - and was satisfied but for a 23yo Balvenie was somewhat disappointed. I have had the Signatory Un-Chill Filtered collection. Do you consider this their ow-end - or mid-end? I have not found it to be high-end but I have found it to be generally satisfactory at a good price.

The ADR I have been having great success with is the Cask Collection. I have had a Glencadam 22 that is the best I have had - an Auch22 nearly the same - a Mortlach17 as well excellent. Is your disparagement of ADR possibly based on a different series??

Regardless, I do appreciate your comments on these various bottlers - and look forward to explore. Can you please tell me how to distinguish between their respective lo-, mid- and hi-end series??

Thanks so much,

Greg

10 years ago 0

@Pandemonium
Pandemonium commented

G&M has quite a few different ranges: the distillery labels are definitely their low end, the Connoisseurs Choice is supposedly a step up. At the other side you'll find ranges like the Reserve, Rare Vintage and The Macphail's Collection. Blackadder has it's low end with the Riverstown collection and Signatory makes a difference between the vintage collection, unchillfiltered collection and cask strength collection. etc...

Let me state clearly for the record that I have no problems with AD Rattray whatsoever.

As for the distinguishment between the hi and low end, mainly price and presentation.

10 years ago 0