Secret Islay 32 Year Old 1989 The Whisky Jury

A Secret Islay from 1989... that's over 30 years old, mind you! And here, too, this is not this bottler’s first rodeo. I'm very late with my tasting notes – the bottle hasn't been available anywhere for a long time – but since I could get my hands on a sample, I didn't want to withhold it from you. After all, those who did get hold of the bottle may not even have opened it. Someone has to taste this stuff, right? Just kidding. Let's get started.

Great nose! Subtly smoky, but unmistakably Islay, especially very fruity on white and yellow fruit. Think apricots, lime, a lot of grapefruit. But also pineapple and Granny Smith. Malt sugars and honey. On reflection: it's not so much smoky, but peated – if that makes sense.

On taste it starts delicately, but it is a sneaky bastard, because it has only just touched the taste buds and then explodes in sweet peat with a cartload of citrus fruit. It even flirts with some tropical fruit. A salty edge quickly puts us back on the ground with both feet. Islay's, that is.

The finish is satisfyingly long, wonderfully sweet and softly smoky. Brilliant.

Mighty malt where the peat has made way for a large part for a lot of fruit. And if I could venture a guess? Laffie!