Miltonduff 9 Year Old 2005 Duncan Taylor Octave

An Octave is a small cask – about an eight of a regular hogshead – and in this case, according to the label, it was a reconstructed ex-sherrywood octave cask. A mouthful. It was released especially for The Nectar last year.

The influence of the wood is immediately apparent on the nose. Loads of spices – woodspice, ginger and cinnamon – precede fairly sweet fruit. Think melon, oranges, baked apples and some apricots. I also get caramel and pastry with almonds. There is something moldy as well, as if the oranges are already rotting. A touch sour, even. But it works. If you add water, it becomes a lot more herbal on pine needles and dried hay.

It is quite sharp on the palate. This is due, I think, to the high ABV, but also the young age. The fruit is still there – add some rhubarb and plum jam – but the spices kick in at high volume. It turns dry rather quickly. Do I get a salty edge there? Yup. But again: it works. Diluted it becomes sharper and drier. Even slightly bitter.

The finish is medium long, piquant and dry.

This was only my tenth Miltonduff so far – and also the youngest – and it was not bad at all. But careful with water. I found it better without. Thanks, Wim.

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